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Showing posts from February, 2025

Kino Flo Diva Lite

The diva lite has gel modes preset into them they have gel as one separate category and hue and saturation controls as one separate category kino flo have lumped the two together. The controls are what affect your light source. This device is a powerhouse when it comes to lighting gels it has so many gels built into it. The number on the front dictates which number it is and then they also have names for the actual gels themselves/ They are different from the other lights when it comes to variety of gels. They're more RGB focused and you have a great variety of colors. You can also dial the precise color that you're looking for. Its great use for scenes and trying to replicate emotions. 

Aperture Mt Pro

This device is really versatile and it can save you a pinch depending on your situation in short it is a foot long tube out that has pixels which means you can effects. There's some test shots that are later shown in the video but for now here's a quick review it has magnets so you can put it on  lot of different types of surfaces which  not only cuts out a lot of time but it also gives you more flexibility to use it as practical. It comes with a nice sleek grid case and a cheap little tripod which does the job for the most part. The light is pretty bright for its size at 1M it's set to daylight output lux. This light is really close to being as bright as the 2ft tube light from the amaran. 

Aperture P60C

 What I learned about this lighting device is that it has the exact same interface as the x but with a couple of more features for instance the light can range anywhere from 2500 degrees kelvin and 7500. It also has the ability of the green and magenta shift which is really visible. If you dip into hsi mode which will give all the colors of the wind being able to dial in hue based on a 360 degree color wheel saturation. You can also go into the effects mode which gives you a few more options in addition to what the x version has effects like police cop lights, clubbing lighting/party, and more. This light has more fun effects you can play with and they're much more easy to set up. They're more easy and compact to work with. 

Aperture Nova 300c

The light has a removable cable hanger, two controllers this lighting tool also has a an app called Cytus. The app lets you control over the nova without ever having to use a phone or tablet. The color and output specs are also quite impressive. In the video it is compared to the aperture 300x and 300d mark ii. It has a huge light range when it comes to the color temperatures from 2000 all the way to 10,000. The device has accurate and high quality color. It has a soft panel it's a larger source so that's really impressive in the color department in the color department. It's excellent when it comes to the color temperature. What I learned in comparison is that with all the other lights it's very pricey and it seems to have more pros when it comes to lighting quality. 

Aperture 60x

 Some key points I learned were that the aperture has a v-mount adapter on the yoke of the light. On the AC adapter brick you can mount it directly to the light. Not only that but you can mount a v-mount battery or dual npf battery plate directly to the light as well. Another great thing about these lights are that they can support ac power, v-mount batteries, accessories you need to use all those power sources there aren't many other lights that give those power options which makes it a great versatile lighting tool to work with. In addition the aperture 60x is weatherproof. At least in the sense that they're dust and water resistant which is a pretty solid benefit considering how important it is to keep equipment nice and tidy. The obvious is to not take them in extreme weather like a thunderstorm. 

Aperture 600x & 600c

I learned the similarities they share are they both have bi-color lights. A bi-color LED light is capable of providing light source with different color temperatures to match with the existing or ambient light. The biggest similarity between these two are the design and the weight. Really the only way to tell them apart is at the fixture level. You can also see it by looking at the x monitor or the carbon fiber accent on the 600x. Additionally like the 600d pro you get features like being able to change your v-mount or gold mount batteries from the controller box itself. Obviously when it's hooked up to the main power switch I learned it's a useful feature and then you have things like the pro features. They're different from each other in terms of material and watt power. 

Aperture 300x

The aperture 300x can rotate on various degrees. It's flexible and can work with different ranges that you might want to do. It has a great way to lock your tilt. The con of it is it has tightly wound coils inside of the package. The light turns on if the head is plugged in it isn't an error or anything its because the ballast comes with the studio mode. The brilliant light can be dimmed from a potent main light to a subtle, nuanced fill light, flicker free across the dimming range. Adjusting settings is effortless regardless of where the light is set.

Lighting Instruments

The four lighting instruments mentioned are Tungsten, HMI, Fluorescent, LED.  Tungsten lights have been used to make films ever since films were being made they're a very popular iconic light that anyone can recognize. It's used in a lot of different lights to this day. These types of lights are kind of ancient especially in technology. The bad side of it is they heat up very quickly and can be a dangerous tool to work around with. HMI's look a lot like tungsten lights but they differ. HMI's are much larger than their tungsten counterparts. A common favorite is fluorescent lights. These lights came into popularity for a few reasons they're super efficient especially when you compare them to tungsten lights. They were used just before a 650 watt tungsten could be matched with a much lower 100 or even 60 watt bulb of a fluorescent light because they weren't using so much wattage in comparison to a tungsten light. Lastly comes LED lights (stands for light-emitting ...

Negative Fill

Negative fill essentially is if something doesn't have much light, its overcast and everything is very flat and evenly lit and you want to add some more contrast or dimension you use negative fill. As the name suggest it is the opposite of fill which takes away light in ways to create you use something called duvetyne it's a black matte clothe and sometimes its put over frames. It's to create a flag or floppy but its advised you can also use a black bed sheet or anything thats not reflective thats black negative fill. It usually works best outdoors. It mutes out that bright background and it gives you a lot of soft flat light. So if you bring a negative fill it brings you more dimension and more contrast. 

The Quality Of Light

The quality of light is what interacts with your subject and the effect it creates it really comes down to whether the light is hard or soft. Hard light casts a very defined sharp look where as soft light does the opposite and it softens the subjects features. Diffused light, is light that's filtered by something. Sunlight through a sheer curtain is diffused. Light from behind a lampshade is diffused compared to the direct light of a bare bulb. You can use a diffusion sheet to filter the harsh rays of the sun or another light source in order to produce a soft, even, complimentary glow at any time of day. Hard light communicates being dramatic, bold, and intimidating. Soft communicates a more friendly, gentle, sad appearance. 

Shaping Light

Bouncing light softens a hard light and makes the features more round and gentle.  You can bounce it off and it will reflect light back on your subject. The bounce boards becomes the light source and the size of the bounce board is how close it is to your subject. The fourth thing I learned was about some light positioning key tips. For example if you're an interview its suggested to the put the light on the opposite side of the talent from the camera because it simply looks more interesting. I think these tips are generally important because they provide helpful insight on how to make your content look more visually eye catching and pleasant to watch. It also shows professionalism and style it makes your videos have a flare to it making it stand out because it shows technique.                 

Using False Color

False colors are an image that depict an object in colors that differ from those on a photograph which are  referred as true color. False color is a rendition that detects features that are not readily discernible. When using false color the first thing you're going to notice is the change in colors. On the bottom you're going to have a chart that represents all the colors between 0 - 100 it's a way to measure brightness values. Radio engineers discovered this a long time ago. The dark pink stands for zero so this where you pick up total black color and as the scale goes up the colors change. Dark blue is 0 - 10 you generally want to avoid seeing pink and dark blue because that means that your image is underexposed now on the high end of that of that you're going have your orange and red and that means you're completely overexposed. 

Shots Vs Setups

What is the main difference between a shot vs. a setup? What is the most important thing to keep in mind when you're going to shoot a scene? A setup is a configuration of lighting, props, set dressing, and actors. Shots are the different angles and points of camera composition. For example two shot, birds eye, cowboy etc. A set of shots. Shooting in order isn't always the best idea, you want to minimize the amount of turnarounds and shoot at an efficient pace. Schedule out a day of when you want to shoot together with your crew, and film scenes that are similar that have less turnarounds. Shooting this way is a much better technique. The difference is shooting by shots is shooting scene by scene. Setup is planned out of order but more quick.

Basics Of Lighting

Some interesting things I learned is that a color LED panel that super bright and dimable can shift between tungsten and daylight. It increments just by clicking and spinning the wheel. The other thing they talk about is broadside or near side which is what you see in the video when the light is hitting the broad side of the actor's face with the face at an angle it'll be the side that faces nearest to the camera. If the actors face is at an angle it would mean the away from the camera and this is how it usually can be lit. It's mostly used in photography but still has great concepts. "cross lighting" is a common approach for photographers who have just started using lights. It is when one opposite side of the camera is at about a 45 degree angle. I can use this in my next film if I want to create a more smooth marble like texture on my image.